Mateo Classic Shirt
Sew a timeless regular-fit shirt with a back yoke, sleeve plackets and cuffs, using the inclusive pattern in sizes 34 to 56.
Project preview
This video is for members
Join Lulu Ferris to watch the complete class and sew along at your own pace.
What you’ll make
Mateo is a classic regular-fit shirt with a straight silhouette, long sleeves and the structured details of traditional shirtmaking.
The finished shirt has a collar and stand, double back yoke, front button bands, sleeve plackets and cuffs. Its clean proportions suit smart or casual versions.
What you’ll learn in this class
- Prepare and stabilize the collar, stand, cuffs, front bands and areas prone to stretching.
- Construct mirrored sleeve plackets and reinforce each opening at its main stress point.
- Assemble the cuffs and attach them evenly to the pleated sleeve ends.
- Enclose the shoulder seams inside a double back yoke.
- Build the collar and stand, then attach the completed unit to the neckline.
- Set in the sleeves, finish the hem and complete the shirt with buttonholes and buttons.
Fabric choices
The class sample is sewn in cotton poplin, a traditional shirting fabric that supports crisp collar, cuff and topstitched details.
Linen and lightweight denim are also discussed. Select interfacing to suit the fabric and the structure wanted in the collar, stand and front bands.
Make it your own
Use the full double yoke or simplify it to one layer. Interface one or both layers of the collar and stand depending on how much structure you want.
Mateo can also have short sleeves. Fabric choice and the use of buttons or snaps can shift the straight-cut pattern from classic shirting to a more casual style.
Sizing and finished lengths
The pattern includes grouped sizes 34/36 through 54/56. Its chart covers chest measurements of 82–130 cm, waists of 66–114 cm and hips of 78–126 cm.
Depending on size, the finished shirt length is 73–78 cm and the sleeve length is 65.5–68 cm. A4 and A0 pattern files are provided with an information sheet.
The complete video class follows Mateo from prepared pieces through the collar, cuffs and closures, accompanied by A4 and A0 pattern files.
Pattern & materials
Patterns are included with membership
Active members can download every available PDF and materials list.
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