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Sewing Basics

Essential Pockets: Patch, Gusset, Butterfly & Slant

Learn four versatile pocket constructions and how to add them to trousers, skirts, dresses and other sewing projects.

Essential Pockets: Patch, Gusset, Butterfly & Slant

Video class

This video is for members

Join Lulu Ferris to watch the complete class and sew along at your own pace.

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What you’ll make

This four-part class explores patch, gusset, slant side and butterfly side pockets for dresses, skirts, trousers and other garments.

The patch-pocket lesson includes square, rounded, lined and dimensional versions. Optional flaps can cover a pocket or be used alone as a decorative detail.

You will also make a gusset pocket with extra capacity, a visible diagonal pocket for waistband garments and two butterfly-pocket constructions.

What you’ll learn in these classes

  • Prepare lined and unlined patch pockets with clean edges and reinforced openings.
  • Press a smooth curved edge and add elastic gathering to a rounded patch pocket.
  • Create depth in patch and gusset pockets while maintaining accurate placement.
  • Make, position and topstitch an optional pocket flap.
  • Add a slant side pocket to a trouser or skirt pattern, or reverse the alteration to remove one.
  • Insert butterfly pockets into dresses, skirts or trousers, including an already-sewn dress.

Make it your own

Choose a square, rounded, gathered or dimensional patch pocket, then decide whether to add lining, a flap or decorative topstitching.

The butterfly pattern has separate applications for dresses and for skirts or trousers with a waistband. Adjust the pocket position to suit the garment and wearer.

Pocket sizes and pattern files

The supplied pieces offer several proportions. The patch-pocket PDF labels its options Small, Medium and Large and notes that these are flexible design choices rather than standard body sizes.

Four A4 downloads are included: patch pockets, gusset pockets, a slant side pocket and a butterfly side pocket.

The four focused video lessons and matching pattern files let you return directly to the pocket construction needed for a future garment.

Pattern & materials

Patterns are included with membership

Active members can download every available PDF and materials list.